Opuwo

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Opuwo is the northernmost town in the Kunene region (the region where I live). From Outjo, it was 400km and about a little less than half of that was on unpaved road. Unpaved road doesn't sound so bad until you factor in the dust. Everytime we passed another vehicle, we had to roll up the windows (remember the time before automatic windows? anyone?) to minimize (but never totally prevent) dust from entering. The further north you travel, the hotter it gets, and the difference was very obvious by the time we arrived. But, the heat is not really too bad since it is a dry heat, so easy to breathe, and the air is very clean (no pollution here). And the highlight of the drive was seeing all the animals along the way, kudu, warthog, giraffes, etc. It can be quite dangerous to drive since animals are regularly crossing the road.



Opuwo is VERY different from Outjo, for several reasons. First, we had to cross the red line. Most NAmibians live in the North. As you may remember, the red line is a remanent of the apartheid days under South African rule, where blacks were forced to live in the north. Now, the red line is used as a veterinary control point. That being said, most blacks still live in the north, so Opuwo has much less white people than in Outjo (the only white people are volunteers or tourists). Second, Opuwo is not as developed as Outjo. It was like entering the "real"africa many of us think of. Brick or mud huts outside down, dirt roads, animals in the street, poverty all around me. The government is making efforts to develop the area and they are in the middle of completing the tarred road straight from Windhoek to Opuwo. There was also evidence of development with lots of new buildings, a bank, and new grocery stores. The third, and most striking difference is the people! In Outjo, people are usually dressed in modern clothing (jeans, shirt, etc.) with only the occasional Herero woman (dressed in a huge dress, with a hat that looks like a hotdog on her head-I really need a pic to do justice to these beautifully dressed women). In Opuwo, there were many herero, but also Himbas. Himba women are topless, and wear a short skirt made of hides that flare out at the bottom. They wear many accessories and cover their hair and entire body with a reddish brown paste that lends them their distinctive colouring. I definiately, felt "overdressed" in my long skirt and shirt. Fourth, Opuwo is much safer than Outjo. I could even walk alone at night and not feel threatened. Unfortunately, Outjo is not like that. It is safe during the day, but definitely not at night, even if I walked with others.

I was visiting Opuwo for training with the regional pharmacist, and was joined by the pharmacy assistant from a neighbouring district. I had to eat hospital food fior 3 days, enough said. The worst part is I couldn't complain or buy my own food from the grocery store since everyone is hungry, and I would've definitely looked foolish or rude. The training went well, but I now realize just how much I have to do, and it is a LOT! I don't even want to think about it now.

We walked up to the newly built lodge at the top of a large hill, and the view was spectacular, with valleys and mountain ranges spread before us. One of the surprising things about Namibia is that everwhere I go, there are tourists, and its not even close to peak season! The lodge was quite busy, and I think we were the only locals there (and yes, I am including me in that as well!). It was very bizarre to be sitting somewhere that I would definitely expect to be a tourist, but I certainly wasn't! For starters, I was not dressed as well, hadn't showered in a couple days and just looked dishevelled. The tourists around me looked relaxed in crisp chinos, and safari hats, sipping wine and chatting.

The trip back to Outjo was in an ambulance, and not our version. Their version is a mini-bus where the patients are crammed in. These are the complicated patients that they can't treat in Opuwo so send for more specialized treatment in the capital, Windhoek (an 8hr drive for them!). I didn't want to think about what conditions some of them might have, and certainly not if they were contagious.

All in all, had a great time, meeting people, saw another side of Namibia (and I think I liked it even more than Outjo) and learning about my role here.